Thursday, September 30, 2010

Daily bird cage cleaning


Birdcage Bedding: Linen change once, even twice a day, it is highly recommended. To do this, make sure the cage is easily accessible without the risk of flight of birds. It does not matter if you use newspaper or other insurance that covers not cause problems with your bird if ingested. Avoid all the elements that the ink or colored glue on them. It is better to be safe edge of paper that can be easily removed and replaced. Depending on the size of yourBirds> you can use several layers of bedding when the cage allows you to change only the top.

Birdcage Dishes: All dishes of food and water must be cleaned with a non-toxic cleaning products under the warm water and then dried. In doing so do not worry about traces of soap or detergent you use disinfectant remains on the dishes. Drying is a very important step of the process is clean because otherwise, when the courts are not absolutely dry, which can lead todamping and then pour the seeds or pellets. A good way to avoid unwanted and unpleasant situations is to have at least two sets of dishes that you can have at your disposal, when one set is in the process of drying. Materials such as plastic or stainless steel are very useful for long-term use, because it washes several times over a long period of time.
No matter what items you used as a dish - a bowl, cup, bottle or you can do available for cleaning accessory, like a bottle brush, or any other disinfectant droppings left on the surface of the plate to avoid.

Bird Cage Accessories: Any accessories that has been placed in the cage must be removed and cleaned regularly with warm water and soap or other detergents, rinsed and dried thoroughly before they are returned to the cage. Do this by observing carefully the evidence for any accumulation of excrement and be sure to remove all.

> Bird Cage Setting: All the seeds, pellets, shell, feathers and other debris should be swept or sucked in by the sack bottom of the cage. If the cage is equipped with an apron to help in collecting the spoils. It can be easily removed and cleaned daily.

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Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Protect your fish from predators Ideas from a Tampa Bay Store

Have you ever gone to the lake and found some of your favorite fish dead or half-eaten by animals neighborhood? For most pond owners with ponds outdoors, this is a constant problem. Birds, raccoons, cats and other animals often claim it as their personal buffet ponds. However, there is hope for this seemingly endless struggle. Let me share a couple of methods we used in the past has been successful.

Shelters are a must when making a pond. Fish Grottopurchased or constructed by placing a piece of slate or flat stone on top of a couple of boulders. Make sure that the building in the deepest part of your pond. Most animals do not enjoy getting wet (except for some birds) and more than likely not swim in the lake fishing. Floating Flowers and plants are another way to get your fish to hide. They provide a protective cover and leave for a place to escape from potential predators.

If the problem is primarily with the birds maya simple solution. Fake, realistic birds can be used as a form of protection. Most birds are territorial. If another bird is found in a pond (or open buffet as they see it,) will usually fly away to find another fishing hole. However, this should not work with any type of bird. Even if you use this method, certainly the position of birds in the replication of each week. We have found that they are smart and quickly find our list.

Another affordableand reasonably effective method is a fish bait. They are very colorful fake fish that floats in the pond. The birds and other predators tend to go slower after, the weakest. The animal will attack the bait first, allowing the rest of the fish can hide!

A deterrent is more manic the use of false alligators and other predators. Drive out the uninvited! These are simple glider, or images that can be purchased at any garden or water-saving device. Some of this comessolar eyes that glow in the dark!

The easiest way would be to charge for your pond. Although not the most beautiful accessory works for sure! Bowls can be purchased for ponds of all shapes and sizes to fit. Beware of poor quality systems with a weak meshing. These can be easily torn by beaks and claws.

If this cheap, simple methods are not satisfactory, you can use a motion sensor sprinkler. These devices attach to a garden hose and can be mountedon a deck or patio laid in the ground. She spraying unwanted animals or people with a burst of water when activated. Although this product is very effective it can be expensive.

In no way (short of eradication) will prove to be 100% effective. There will always be a predator that there is a clever way to outsmart his findings. However, using some of the ideas shared with you, you can put all you can eat buffet snack once a year!

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Tuesday, September 28, 2010

North Durras on the south coast of NSW Australia

In fact, there are more kangaroos in the North Durras there are full-time residents. This village is made up of three trailers and about 40 homes - most of which are used only during the summer holidays. Visitors to North Durras are attracted by the following features:

Durras Lake

Considered the most pristine lakes in NSW. This is mainly due to its regular washing of the sea and have no homes or homes along the edges.About 4 square kilometers, it is usually accessible only by boat or bush walk if you can drive with two boat ramps on the edge of the lake. It 's very popular with kayaks, canoes and small boats. Commercial fishing is prohibited in the lake to recreational fishermen have a wide range of good catches, particularly of flat and sea bream. When the lake is open to the ocean, prawning is also very popular.

Durras Beach

4 km from the sandy beach that stretchesHead to the north to Durras in the south. Popular with surfers and fishermen. Or, perfect for long walks on the beach. Dolphins are often seen near the beach and whales cruise past.

Murramarang National Park

Durras North is completely surrounded by National Park. Famous for its wildlife and excellent hiking trails. There is a park entry fee, but if you visit North Durras. Birdlife is prolific with many different environments as well. 209Birds abound, including colorful parrots and endangered species like the Hooded Plover.

Batemans Marine Park

Established to protect marine biodiversity in this part of the south coast, the Marine Park includes the beach and Durras Lake. recreational fisheries generally fine, but there is a shrine Durras Lake area which means no fish. After the introduction of the Marine Park in 2006, commercial fishermen were excluded from the settlement in Durras Lakewhich means that stocks will improve.

Eurobodalla Coast attractions

Batemans Bay is only 20 km and has numerous restaurants, golf courses, clubs and shops. Even charter fishing and river cruises. Mogo Zoo is just another 20 minutes from Batemans Bay. There are many other attractions and activities in the areas of skydiving, surfing lessons.

Durras North is popular with the residents of Canberra who have just 2 hours drive. visitors to Sydney have a 3:30hour. Many international travelers who visit North Durras considered a highlight of their visit to Australia. Hiking, nature and the natural beauty of the area are the main cause for the extension of the period.

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Monday, September 27, 2010

Falconry - The Ultimate Pigeon Control Method

Falconry is an art that the use of trained raptors (birds of prey is) to hunt. traditional conception of falconry is the art started in Mesopotamia. Historically, falconry was a popular sport and a status symbol among the nobles of medieval Europe and feudal Japan. Falconry is not limited to the past. If the inviolable but simple concepts are followed, and trained a bird a delight for many years. Today it is used as a bird in the control methodlarge cities and is very effective.

People are already tired of buying insect repellent ineffective pigeons and other bird control systems. It 's time for a revolutionary way to scare all the birds nesting on the roof and landing in unwanted areas. Now is the time for falconry - the final inspection pigeon to enter. Many pest control artificial devices have been marketed as the best, but in fact most of them are freeunreliable. Pigeons are intelligent animals and quickly adapt. Oars, nets, traps, repellents are less effective - the pigeons can easily find ways to avoid them all, in the long term. So it's only a matter of time until they begin to return. It does not take long for the sound pest control devices, warning signs and understand the falcon models offer no danger.

With falconry - pigeons have no choice but to stay away from the roof or a hawk deadly attack to follow. This iswhat the ultimate method of pigeon control is everything - very effective tactic to remove the pigeon. Studies have shown that birds, especially pigeons are not used to real life predators, like hawks and falcons. Their presence is consistently associated with danger. What's even better is that the hawks flying only once or twice a week for the desired effect.

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Sunday, September 26, 2010

Protection of outdoor gardens in Animal Repellents

Over time and fungi tend to a garden, everyone knows that fight off wild animals is another danger to be treated for your garden in good condition. Although not bad in many common animals parks outdoors, such as deer, squirrels and ground hogs will enjoy views of the garden as a bounty hunter to harvest, and if you do not have repellent sprays or fences you practically Them call for a ride.

Whether you plant fruits, vegetables and flowerswild animals will naturally be attracted to vegetation and you want your party on crops. Squirrels are notorious for looting bird feeders and other garden supplies, so if you want to keep your garden free of all spray damage to invest in sustainable or divorce or some animals deal with a wide range of repellent.

Although some animals may cause problems for your garden, keeping them away is not difficult. Most animals react strongly and smell like the perfumethe natural predator of the animal anywhere near a garden, many animals avoid the area. Consequently, many insecticides used high-quality perfumes like fox and coyote urine, animals that prey on small animals like mice, beavers and possums. Shake Away produces a complete line of granular repellent that they will not keep away deer, cats, small animals and rodents. Simply sprinkle Shake Away grains around the garden and patio and you're done. The animals will be approaching your gardentake a whiff of fox odor similar to turn fast and instinctive feeling threatened.

Another easy to use products of animal repellent spray is a remote sensor. This is a motion activated water repellent spray device that is designed with a jet of water when deer get too close. The use of heat and motion sensors, the device can detect when an animal approaches and your garden will be a stream of water shooting 35 feet innocent in order to deter the deer. These sensors are designed to shootAt random intervals so intelligent animals are able to determine a pattern. This device is attached to a garden hose and requires only a standard 9 volt battery.

Another option to protect your garden from animals is intrusive to install fencing around the garden. Deer enclosure mesh environment that is friendly ¾ "polypropylene strands linked together. netting easily attaches to wooden poles or metal and can be found in lengths up to 350feet and a height of 7 meters thick mesh provides a visual barrier that will deter most animals from getting too close to your garden.

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Saturday, September 25, 2010

Introduce your cat to other pets

First half (or third) of the cat home, make sure you are familiar with cat behavior, both in terms of territorial behavior and aggression, and the basic principles of cats, a newcomer to accept, especially a kitten ( that can be perceived as less of a threat), but others do not.

Help this integration gradually introducing the newcomer to your cat (s) and kept in a separate room until the trust (especially if theis a kitten) and your existing cats have used. The newcomer is likely to be uncertain and anxious, and is moving to new and unfamiliar territory already occupied (and can be defended) by the current resident feline. Feed separately to reduce competition for food, and make a fuss of your existing cats, so do not feel neglected by the new incumbent.

If you already have a dog, the application process is similar to tat described above -gradually and non-threatening. Once again, the dog immediately accept the cat. Sometimes a female dog will accept a kitten and refer the best way would be to one of her cubs, even to the extent of providing some protection. Make sure you give the dog sitting so much hype and attention, as usual (or more), and praise and reward for good behavior

Introducing a new cat to the pet can be a problem. If you purchased a puppy from a breeder, mayhave never experienced the sight of stimulation that a bird has. While hunting or playing basic instinct may cause reactions, can be quite easy to train your cat to Bird ignore or even to accept him as a companion. However, if a cat is a cat who has had occasion to introduce kittens to birds of prey, or an adult cat that has already learned to catch the birds, You Have a difficult task on your hands. If you find that Do you have a problem, consult your veterinarian.

Goldfish another pet that can be threatened by a cat coming. Those kept indoors in a tank with a glass cover and artificial lighting must be safe, but someone exposed to a curious cat that can stimulate an adverse reaction. In a goldfish pond outdoors are also susceptible to the attentions of a cat, and you may need to train your cat to leave them alone. Protective measures, including barriers asNetworking>, and installation of many water plants like lilies - the fish can hide under the leaves

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Friday, September 24, 2010

How do I prevent birds from eating Young Plants

The birds tend to love to eat all your young plants, so that every gardener needs to learn how to prevent the birds from eating the young plants directly from their gardens. The birds never seem to give the opportunity to sweep away those baby plants yummy and I can not stick with them which means that crops lose so the only way to get rid of the birds is to learn how well they do. We're not going to teach how to harm birds. Everything you read will be safe ways to stop the birdsto steal the young plants from your garden.

One possibility

This option can be a bit 'more complex than most, but it seems to work really well. Placing bird net over the whole garden is one of the best options to prevent birds from stealing your young plants. This may not seem very friendly, but the network is actually quite safe. The only thing I could find is to help guide a couple of birds in the morning and tried to runwith some of your plants, but forgot the nets over them to escape quite complicated.

Option Two

If the garden has an irrigation system to consider going off every 15 minutes. This scare the birds so they fly away and can not even groped back. If you use this option to ensure the guidance of your check to make sure that local government has permitted the first watering the garden as some states are concerneddrought put an end to an outdoor water consumption.

Third option:

Another good way to grow your young plants transformed by their own little money, with a little help from cartons of milk or juice. This may seem like a lot of work, but if you want your plants to grow beautiful plants become worthwhile. Cut the bottom of the box and when your plant has grown enough, you can use the boxes as the birds areconcerned.

As you can see the birds learn to avoid eating the young plants is not too difficult. All you need is the right tips and tricks and you'll be on your way to a beautiful garden for all season. Give your young plants a chance to live and to protect them, but make sure you also think of the birds in the process and use the environment options. There is no need to kill in the process of protecting your garden, do nothing but eatjust like you.

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Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Supporting Vines - Consider Construction

Which comes first - the vine, or the support it grows on? Sometimes one, sometimes the other; but ideally, both together. Whether it's an expensive pergola or a simple wire netting, no support should be either so elaborate or so out of proportion that it is in discord with the rest of the garden and the architecture. And unless the vine is in tune with all three, it does more aesthetic harm than good. A vine is only as effective as it is suited to its supporting structure, and the reverse.

Design-wise, supports and structures of all kinds should be kept on the simple side, conforming - not competing - with the architecture of the house or other buildings. Painting the supports the same color as the house helps tie the two together, with the vine to create the contrasting color and pattern. The best supports neither compete with their vines for attention nor outshine them.

Good construction is also important. A support should be strong enough from the start to bear the weight of the vine when it is fully mature - and even when it is whipped by strong wind. The bases of the support should be sunk below the frost line; and all wood, even durable cypress or redwood, should be treated with a rot-preventive. (Don't use creosote or anything else that is poisonous to plants.) Copper nails and galvanized iron bolts also help make sure the whole thing won't collapse when the vine has grown lush and heavy.

Most supports need periodic painting or refinishing. Plan ahead for this just like planning for the stages of tissue culture. Make the structure accessible; and train and prune the vine to keep it under control, so the stems can be removed and laid down without the job of unraveling a hopeless tangle, or even cutting the plant back to the soil.

For the sake of unity and balance in garden design, structures and supports need a reason for their appearance - to connect one building, area, or level with another; display a specimen or accent vine; keep the vine shapely and upright against a wall; lead the eye to an object of interest, like a fountain; integrate a restful bench or an outdoor living area with its surroundings.

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Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Cat-proof Garden Fence

Cats are pretty engrossed in exploring places. They are active, playful and sometimes destructive little creatures. This is the very reason why cats are oftentimes a problem in keeping a safe and organized house. To preclude cats from spoiling homes, they are given a place outside. There, they can play around, chase other cats and enjoy an outdoor life.

Cats that are used to living indoors find it hard to adapt reasonably with the outdoor environment. They long for attention and companionship. Nonetheless, an enclosed environment is not conducive to the dwellers. Thus, the perfect solution is to create an access for the cats to play in the garden.

What will keep your pet cats inside your boundaries? What will keep stray cats away? The ultimate answer to your dilemma is a cat-proof garden fence.

Giving your cats an enclosed environment aside from the home itself has several advantages. The topmost advantage is the security. Even if cats are outside, they are still free from the opportunity to run over. With a suitable garden fence, your cats will be shunned from digging up your neighbor's precious plants. Your cats are also protected from being injured by predators such as dogs.

The garden fence shuns the two dangerous possibilities of preventing cats from going outside your territory and inviting other cats to enter and ruin your garden. You have to take advantage of the security and protection that a fitting garden fence can offer.

Gardens vary in shape and size. Thus, what may be practical and easy to work on one may be difficult to another. Nevertheless, you have to be adept in creating a safe haven for your cats at the same time be wary of the security measures.

To make a cat-proof garden fence, you will need materials according to your preferred fence. Also scout for availability of garden fence materials. It will be less costly, if you will choose those materials that are widely available. You can choose from, bricks, wood or cement. The use of trellis sections can augment the look of your garden fence. Be sure that the materials you use are not toxic to your pets.

In constructing a garden fence, it is better to start with good planning. Follow your state's regulations in building fences. In that way, you will be free from legal hassles.

Your garden fence must have an escape-proof system. There are diverse methods of doing this. These methods include using stretcher wires, brackets and frameworks. Moreover, you have to make a choice whether to make your garden fence fixed or flexible.

All wire fencing or netting must be vigilantly erected. They must be secured through weaving a lightweight stretcher wire through the mesh. Another method is to tie the mesh to the stretcher wire at standard intervals.

Enclosure using a garden fence will help you do away with the usual problems in connection with cats. Your garden can be the perfect haven for your cats. Be sure to give them safety that is due them. Provide them whatever type of enclosure but let them have their freedom and enjoyment.

Moreover, be bothered no more by the destructive nature of cats. In the garden, they will enjoy at the same time be safe. You too, will enjoy your abode - neat, comfortable and cat-devastation-free!

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Monday, September 20, 2010

Get Relief From Pest Birds With Bird Netting

Over the years, you've learned a few things about pest birds. A very important reason to bird proof your home is to keep your family healthy. Controlling over nesting birds are really a big issue for property owner and home owner.

Nesting birds accumulate a build-up of viruses, bacteria and fungal matter in their droppings. When it comes to bird proofing a building there are numerous options available. These will largely be determined by what kind of birds are presenting an issue and the type of building it is required for.

There are spikes, netting, gels and even an audible repellent available to ensure that your premises don't fall foul of these winged foes. Sparrows, pigeons, seagulls and the aforementioned pigeons can all cause problems and each has their own preventative techniques. Different animals pose their own issues and each requires a different method for getting them off of your property. one of the most popular device to control bird is bird spikes. Bird spikes can be easily fit and are most successful tools for controlling birds and cost effective. They work by installing them in locations where these birds congregate and they stick onto flat surfaces that normally would be good pigeon landing spots. Because of their sharp pointed ends, pigeons obviously can't land on them nor rest in these areas. They therefore have to move away to other areas. These bird spikes are designed in such a way to keep pest birds or pigeons and huge birds away from building ledges, signs, parapet walls and other flat surfaces that pest birds like to roost and nest on.

There is a pigeon deterrent tools which can also be use to repel pigeon from a certain spots or location. Many businesses and homeowners contend with damage resulting from nesting pigeons - pigeon waste, feathers and nesting materials greatly diminish property values and pose a serious health hazard. Building owners are all too familiar with the damage that pigeon droppings can cause to their buildings and other property. These same droppings, nesting materials and pigeon feathers also block gutters and rain pipes and can lead to damage to the building as a result. An effective pigeon deterrent can avoid the property damage associated with these nesting pigeon problems. Finally, you can now protect your building, home, office and shops by using these pigeon deterrent spikes and get health safety and the property damage associated with nesting pigeons.

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Sunday, September 19, 2010

Keeping Parks Clean One Drop at a Time

There is nothing better on a sunny summer day than the outdoors. Taking in a ride on a bike trail, a pond-side picnic or a pick-up basketball game: being surrounded by nature's beauty at a nearby park is a favorite activity of many people. As we all know, though, this beautiful day can be disrupted by pesky birds. With fecal matter splattered everywhere in sight, geese marking their territory and pigeons flying all around, the calm and peaceful day at the park can turn into a less-than-desirable battle with the birds.

Birds roost in many places we frequent when enjoying a day at the park. How do bird droppings in your food sound? Appetizing? Well, they love the warm, dry beams inside of picnic shelters. Ever used the bathroom in an outhouse? Most likely, you have shared that rest room with a bird. With doors constantly swinging open during daylight hours, birds flying in-and-out should be no surprise.

There is also the visual aspect. Who wants to be in a park with bird droppings everywhere? Those same droppings also get into ponds and fountains, contaminating the water with diseases that can easily jump from species to species. No one wants to look at a pond sprinkled with goose droppings. Since fecal matter is acidic, it can erode metal, wood, aluminum and iron surfaces like those on jungle gyms, swing sets and benches.

Birds can carry over 60 diseases that can be spread to humans through their fecal matter. Some of the diseases can be fatal to children, the elderly and people with HIV/AIDS. One of particular concern is the respiratory disease histoplasmosis. It results from a fungus grown in dried bird droppings that is spread after an accumulation begins to dry out and becomes an airborne dust. When inhaled unknowingly by people, it enters the mucus membrane and can cause lasting tissue damage to the respiratory tract or eyes. Droppings also harbor bacteria that can cause other debilitating diseases, like salmonella. Yikes!

Bird droppings are incredibly costly, and not just in the aesthetical sense; companies spend thousands of dollars on keeping their buildings clean and clear of birdie-bombs just to see them appear yet again only moments later. The time and labor spent cleaning up after the birds could be better used planting flowers or brainstorming new day camp programs. When it comes to parks, the wide-open, simple landscaping is a major attraction to Canada geese. According to The Humane Society of the United States, "hard" edges between habitat features, like those found in gardens, playgrounds and near ponds, are more visually and physically appealing than softer, more gradual transitions typical of natural landscapes.

There is also the danger factor - a healthy adult Canada goose can produce up to 1.5 pounds of fecal matter per day. This, along with pigeon droppings, can be a steep liability when people have a bad encounter with them. The New York Transit Authority recently was ordered to pay a man $6 million after he slipped and fell down the stairs of a Bronx subway station on pigeon droppings. Not to mention the sight of them is bad for business and the Occupational Safety and Health Administration can cite, fine or shut down your operation because of the bird mess problems.

So what is the best way to rid your park of birds? A common misconception in bird control practices is that killing the birds solves the problem. This is not the case. Lethal methods are like putting a bandage over an open wound without properly cleaning it first; the issue is solved in the short term, but eventually infection occurs and you are worse off then you were before. Birds are essentially the same way; getting rid of the current crop does not make your space less desirable to other birds. Eventually, more will come and you will quickly find out that you have a reoccurring problem.

Poison may seem like a good idea. Not quite. While getting rid of the birds, you are also causing tremendous harm to humans, other mammals and the environment as well. Children play in the grass, roll around and put their fingers in their mouths. Adults sit in the grass and get the poison on their clothes and skin. And shooting them, though effective, will not bring any positive publicity with animal rights activists picketing your property. And besides, shooting them only gets rid of the birds there presently, not the ones that will arrive in the future.

The good news is that you have alternatives. There are many completely harmless, green, efficient approaches to ridding your parks of our feathered friends. And be assured, not all aversion tactics have to be unsightly or unappealing. Making your property less alluring to birds does not at all mean you have to make your property less attractive to the humans as well. Correct bird-control methods can reduce clean-up costs drastically; once they're gone, they will be out of your hair for good. Here are a few suggestions:

Scare tactics

Many people cringe when they think of scarecrows, rubber snakes or plastic owls scattered throughout their pristine landscapes. It is understandable that having a visually unappealing scare may dishearten those looking to rid their beautiful park of the problem. But there are other options, one of which being noisemakers. Using things like propane "cannon shots" and programmable sound-producing devices are effective. Not all auditory devices will be annoying to the patrons of your park. Some of them have ultrasonic sound capabilities that only the birds can hear. This can also drive away bats.

Disrupting the pattern

Erecting fences and putting up netting are two great ways to get birds away from unwanted areas. Spikes, which are completely harmless and, if placed correctly, can be hidden from patron's eyes, are also very effective. Since geese like the same clean landscapes that are appealing to humans, having a more natural terrain will discourage them from settling near your pond or park. A way to do this is to establish tall grasses and thick vegetation at water's edge around lakes or ponds. Also, post "Please do not feed the geese" signs; if they can't eat, they have no reason to stay (or come in the first place).

Repellants

Birds are disturbed by the taste of certain chemicals. One of which, Methyl Anthranilate, is a common flavoring used for candy, gum, soda and certain drugs. Spraying this chemical on land gives birds a similar sensation to what humans get when exposed to the scent of bleach. Though completely harmless to the birds, it bothers them to the point where they must get away from the source.

Geese, pigeons and all other birds have become accustomed to the urban lifestyle. They, too, enjoy the open spaces of parks, playgrounds and ponds. And we have learned to tolerate, and even enjoy, them in our environments. The problems they bring along with them, however, can be nothing less than concerning. Now that we know the trouble they can cause, effective methods of controlling birds is more important that ever. Keeping your patrons safe from disease is of the utmost importance. Using some of these tactics will keep them safe while also maintaining the beauty of nature.

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Saturday, September 18, 2010

Turkey Hunting With Blinds

Recently I was asked if hunters should use hunting blinds while going after turkey. As I reflected for a moment on the most recent outing I had with my son I knew that the answer was a little more complex than a simple 'yes' or 'no'.

It was a perfect weekday morning over spring break. We had never been to this spot before but after a few wrong turns and a double check of the map we arrived at the parking area. My first observation was that we were not the first ones there despite that it was still an hour before sunrise. In addition, it wasn't minutes before two more truckloads of would be turkey harvesters pulled up. Many public spots are just like that.

After a quick coordination with the newly arrived hunters we checked our gear and, as luck would have it, we had left our blind at home. Not letting that stop us, we trekked down an old fire access road for about a quarter of a mile. After choosing an area just off the road that had some cover but still offered a decent view of the clearing we each found a big tree to set up against and settled in - at least that was the idea. As the morning light revealed our surroundings I began calling. In the midst of sounding out some of the most amorous turkey lures I could muster I noticed my son was fidgeting with his pant leg and constantly trying to find a more comfortable position. He had worn some ankle socks instead of his usual calf-high ones and, to make matters worse, the ties at the base of his camo jumpsuit had permanent knots in them making it near impossible for him to secure a bug proof outfit.

It was right about then that we heard our first gobble.

It came from about 15 degrees to our left, 70 - 80 yards out through a partially wooded area, and it was heading our way. We worked that tom for about 30 minutes and got it in to about 40 yards when it went silent and just disappeared. My son would not sit still. I was all but positive that the old tom had spotted him. We never heard from that gobbler again.

The greatest advantage that hunting blinds offer hunters is concealment. They conceal both movement and scent. While turkey do not have any measurable sense of smell, they do have excellent vision which puts a huge plus on the side of using one. Would you dare hike out to your favorite turkey spot wearing a t-shirt and jeans, set up a comfortable folding chair, raise your binoculars to your head every 5 minutes while sipping on the coffee you bought and hour ago, and still expect to come home with an eighteen pound bird? Of course not! But that is a completely reasonable scenario when using a blind (well maybe not quite eighteen pounds).

So what kind of blinds are best for turkey hunting? Even if you are hunting alone I suggest a two man blind. They are roomier and just make the experience more pleasant. Make sure that it comes with camo netting that covers the windows in order to keep down on bugs as well as increase concealment. If the netting is held down by Velcro you can cut a vertical slice (not a wide whole, just a thin slice) roughly 12 inches long at about eye level, which will give you access to a silent shooting hole. The slice does not give bugs any measurable increase in ability to enter the blind and by making it vertical the slit tends to stay shut whereas a horizontal slice can tend to sag open on the bottom. Most blinds provide shelter  from a light rain unless you are using one similar to the Ameristep Jakehouse Blind, which is effectivley a 2.5 foot camo screen that does not provide a roof (but is considerably more portable that a doghouse style). Try to ensure that the camo colors mimic your surroundings. If you will be hunting in the fall, brown and tan colors will be fine. If it is a spring hunt you may want to find one with various shades of green.

While there are many advantages to using blinds while hunting turkey there are a few considerations you should think about. Being so concealed it would be easy for another hunter not to see you. Many blinds do have blaze orange patches or strips that can be exposed if you are in a public area. You may also consider using a blaze swath of cloth wrapped around a nearby tree in order to alert others of your presence. Be sure to set it high enough that your blind does not obstruct its view from the front. Also, mobility is a consideration. Once a blind is set up and in place the hunter is not as able to pick up and move as quickly as without one. Many blinds now can be set up and taken down fairly quickly so it really comes down to motivation. While I concede that mobility is a consideration I have not had any problems packing up and re-locating with more than 15 minutes added to the time it would have taken otherwise.

In answering the original question, if you address these considerations then the benefits far outweigh the limitations and using a hunting blind for turkey will not only improve your harvest but it will make you more comfortable in the process. So gear up and I'll see you in the field (unless, of course, you're in a blind).

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Friday, September 17, 2010

How to Use Bird Seed at Your Wedding

Among the most widely used wedding favors out there is bird seed. Preceded in tradition by rice, bird seed became a common alternative for fear that rice would cause birds to explode after eating it. Of course, this theory has been disproved and both rice and bird seed are still used for wedding favors.

Of course, the best thing about using bird seed to give to your guests is they will have so much fun throwing it at you and your new spouse. Historically, seeds were thrown at new couples to ensure good luck with fertility. Today, people mostly throw the seed after the wedding party, sending the couple off to their honeymoon destination.

A simple way to use bird seed as wedding favors is to purchase a bag of wild bird seed from a feed store or other location. Then using pieces of netting or fabric, place the seed in the middle. Gather the sides of whatever material you are using, and then tie with string, hemp, or ribbon. So that your guests can easily untie these favors, do not use knots that are difficult to break.

Wedding box favors are versatile enough that you can fill these with bird seed as well. Loosely secure a ribbon to hold down the top of the box favors so the seed cannot fall out. Since the boxes are intended to keep, consider having them personalized with a tag that reads something like "Jeremy and Kim" or "August 23, 2010."

For easy access to handfuls of birdseed, place decorative dishes on the tables that your guests will be sitting at. Fill the dishes with birdseed, so that when the time comes to throw it, all they have to do is grab some and head toward the new couple. If you are holding the reception outdoors, be sure the tables are clear of seed afterward or you might have some uninvited guests!

Bird seed can also serve a different purpose besides being lobbed at the newlyweds. For an all natural, eco-friendly wedding favor, consider coating pinecones in honey and then rolling in seed. These favors should be made a couple of days before they are given to their recipients, to allow time for the seed to adhere properly. Then your guests will have a beautiful bird feeder that will attract many wild birds!

Buy your birdseed wedding favor already beautifully constructed at Naturesgiftsandmore.com. This site contains different shapes of hanging bird seed favors as well as garden sticks. These gifts are intended to bring wildlife to a yard, making them friendly for the environment. Many birds will be drawn to the seed on the favors including woodpeckers, cardinals, and finches.

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Thursday, September 16, 2010

How to Get Rid of Mosquitoes - What You Can Do to Minimize the Risk of Mosquito Bites

Over the past few years mosquitoes have developed from a nuisance into a real public health danger. These pests spread dangerous diseases such as the West Nile Virus, Eastern Equine Encephalitis as well as malaria and yellow fever. It is more important than ever to protect your family from mosquito bites and learn how to get rid of mosquitoes.

While it may not be possible to completely eliminate the mosquito problem, there are many things you can do to greatly minimize the threat. Some of these things involve changing the surrounding area to be less habitable for the little buggers and some involve temporary measures to keep them away for a short period of time.

One of the easiest and most effective things you can do is to remove any standing water outside your house. This includes flower pots, buckets, pails, wheel barrows and bird feeders that may be filled with rain water. This standing water is a breeding ground for mosquitoes and you will never be rid of them until you can eliminate this factor. Empty water out of these containers on a regular basis, maybe even make a hole in the bottom so that they cannot hold water.

Another step you can take to get rid of mosquitoes is to eliminate as much brush and tall grass as you can. Mosquitoes love to hide in grassy, overgrown areas and if you can keep the lawn cut short and clear out any unwanted brush on your property it will really help cut down on the mosquito problem.

There are several types of plants that naturally repel mosquitoes. Some of these are horsemint, marigolds, catnip and rosemary. You can also use lemon eucalyptus oil as a mosquito repellent.

The next step to take against the mosquitoes is chemical warfare. There are several types of lawn treatments that you can spray on your lawn which contain DEET. These are fairly effective at keeping mosquitoes away from your property for up to 2 weeks at a time. Other chemical treatments can not only act as a mosquito repellent, but actually kill any larvae that are waiting to be hatched.

Other mosquito repellent products such as citronella candles and any burning/smoking products have such a limited radius that they are not that effective. One device that does have some effectiveness is the "mosquito magnet" type of device. These machines use propane gas to produce carbon dioxide which attracts mosquitoes. They are then trapped in a net inside the device where they die of dehydration. Some of these devices can attract mosquitoes from up to a whole acre away. One drawback to using these devices is that when they break down you will need to spend additional money on mosquito magnet replacement parts such as CO2 cartridges, trap netting, thermistors and of course you have to have a supply of propane gas too.

Mosquito repellent that you wear on your skin is also somewhat effective. Products that contain DEET are most effective, while some people swear that Avon's Skin So Soft works just as well with DEET. You should wear long sleeves and pants to minimize the amount of exposed skin.

It is my hope that this essay has shown you how to get rid of mosquitoes. As you can see, there are several steps you can take to minimize the threat of mosquitoes. It takes a multi-layered approach to achieve real effectiveness. You can't just perform one of these steps. To achieve real results you need to do as many of them as you can. If you do all of these things you will have a much better chance at enjoying your outdoor activities without worrying about mosquitoes.

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Wednesday, September 15, 2010

How To Grow Tomatoes In 3 Simple Steps!

Tomatoes are a fantastic, easy to grow and productive fruit you can grow at home. They're great for both beginners and the more experienced gardeners, with a good growing season and normally plenty of delicious fruit for your kitchen table. There are few plants that will grow so well on their own, but with a little bit of effort you can have outstanding Tomato plants producing lots of fruit for quite some time! Here's a simple 3 step guide to getting the very best out of your summer Tomatoes..

Firstly you'll need to decide on the variety of Tomato you want to grow this year. Generally Tomatoes are grouped in to 'Bush' Tomato's and 'Indeterminate' Tomato's (sometimes called 'Stem' Tomato's.) There's no reason why you can't grow a variety of different types though! Bush type Tomatoes tend to trail around and tumble about. They require less work to care for than Stem types, which are more like plants with a main stem and shoots growing off to the side. These side shoots become thick trusses, and its here that the Tomato fruits will begin to grow. If you choose the bush varieties, you can simply let the plant grow however it likes, but I'd recommend that you tie it to something waist height such as a piece of netting or garden fence to keep the fruit off the floor where slugs can get to it. If you choose the Stem type of plant, you will need to place a piece of cane in the ground next to the main stem, and tie the stem to it for support as the Tomato plant grows larger.

Now you have chosen your Tomato plants and tied them to their respective supports, its time to help encourage the best quality fruit to grow. You will see that in the corners where the trusses grow from the main stem, small green shoots will begin to appear at 45 degree angles. As soon as you see these, break them off with your fingers. This is called 'pinching out' and it encourages the plant to grow a larger, stronger fruit. If you leave them in place they will grow into smaller trusses themselves and eventually begin to flower and fruit. While this will give you more fruit, the fruit you do get will be smaller in size and be of a lesser quality. You can use a Lean To Greenhouse for protection from the elements if you want to, theyre cheap and easy to use.

The final key to growing fantastic Tomatoes at home is simply to water them correctly! Tomato plants drink a lot of water, especially when the weather is hot and they are beginning to fruit. If they are not watered regularly by the weather or by you, the fruit will begin to split. If this happens you will see cracks appear in the skin of the fruit. Tomato feed can be added to your water to help encourage healthy growth and a deep red coloring too. As soon as your Tomatoes are red, pick them and enjoy them as soon as possible to really taste the freshness!

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Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Bass Fishing Structure - Underwater Points

Experienced bass anglers have discovered that if they must find the pattern depth quickly, long, sloping points extending out into the lake are the answer. They can work from the shallow beginning of the point, moving deeper and deeper until they find a fish. Usually, the better points for this type of exploring taper gradually rather than drop off abruptly.

To be productive, these points should have deep water on both sides, and if a submerged creek channel swings close by, so much the better. A narrow point extending into the lake is better than a very wide point, because you can cover it in fewer casts and the fish would be more concentrated if they are somewhere along that point.

Bass, and especially big bass, demand plenty of deep water nearby. A point that meets this requirement should be a feeding station, and if bass are on it, you should find them. A creek channel adds a little spice to the terrain, but it is not really necessary. Work the point carefully, fanning your casts until you cover both sides. Then move down about a half cast and repeat the procedure.

Most of these points are really part of the secondary bank of the lake and may slope on one side and drop off abruptly on the other. If these underwater points have brush or other cover close by, they will be even better.

During the spring and fall, one of the best places for big bass is on lake points. Ninety percent of the time, the bass are taken along the points with deep water on both sides. They are actually tiny peninsulas extending into the deeper water. Without a depth-finder, you would be hard pressed to locate these points.

The normal tendency when fishing a point is to start shallow and continue working into deeper and deeper water. This method is generally productive, but you should be aware of other ways to fish the same area. Instead of starting along the shallow base of the point and fishing deeper, you may want to start in deep water and make your casts into shallower and shallower water.

It goes without saying that if you want to keep your lure along the bottom, it is much easier to fish from the shallows to the deep. But fish won't always hit a lure in that direction. That's why you want to vary your approach. If you don't take a fish from shallow to deep, reverse the procedure and fish from deep to shallow.

A third way of fishing the same area is to keep the boat parallel to the drop-off and use a series of fan casts to move the lure right along the drop-off. By paralleling, you can work the lure up the slope for a short distance or drag it down the slope depending on your angle of cast.

Contour or topographic maps have become as useful to the bass fisherman as treasure maps were to the pirates of the eighteenth century. Without these informative guides, locating fish can be a difficult and time consuming task.

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Monday, September 13, 2010

Discovering How Wild Alaska Seafood is Harvested

Go to the local seafood market or grocery store and buying fresh Alaska seafood, but how exactly does it get from the icy waters of Alaska to your shopping cart? There are several ways that seafood is extracted from the ocean. These methods are referred to as harvesting methods, and within the methods there are various rules, regulations and guidelines which are enforced by the Alaskan government. As written into the Alaskan Constitution when created in 1959, the Alaskan seafood industry advocates for a sustainable seafood industry that will preserve not only the local trade but ocean ecosystems in the coming years.

There are two basic kinds of seafood which are harvested from Alaskan waters, whitefish and shellfish. Harvesting methods used for whitefish include trawl, longline, and pots. To begin with, trawling is when a fishing ship or vessel drags a large net behind it. Dragged behind large boats, the trawls may either be dragged along the ocean floor, or at a mid-water range. Bottom trawling, however, can be extremely damaging to certain ocean ecosystems, and is therefore only allowed in very specific regions of the Alaskan waters. Today, electronic sensors are used to alert the boat when a school of fish is in prime position for capture, and the nets are closed. Any whitefish caught, like Alaska Pollock or Sole, are either processed onboard the vessel, or delivered to a nearby processing plant or floating processors.

Other harvesting methods used to harvest whitefish include longline fishing, and pots. Halibut, for example, can only be caught using longline gear. The vessels used in this method are generally relatively small, and the process consists of dropping fishing lines with baited hooks attached to buoys. The low level of by-catch, or the harvesting of other than the target species of whitefish by accident is appealing when using the longline method, however, the amount of labor and time required can make the product quite expensive in the end. Finally, pots are used for Black Cod and Cod, and are large, steel framed cages, essentially wrapped with mesh netting. Bait is used to lure the fish into the pot, and once inside the fish will be unable to escape.

There are many types of Alaska Shellfish, and the harvesting methods can be quite varied. Often steel traps or pots, which function quite similarly to the way pots used for whitefish are utilized. Others are hand harvested, some from the shore and others by scuba divers. Species include Dungeness Crab and Shrimp collected with pots, geoducks and sea urchins by hand, and littleneck and razor clams by digging in the sand. While these harvesting methods may be more labor intensive, the amount of usable seafood recovered is generally quite substantial.

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Sunday, September 12, 2010

How to Protect Koi Carp From Predators

Any fish that live in outdoor ponds are vulnerable to attack from would-be predators and the Koi Carp are, unfortunately, no exception. To Koi enthusiasts, these fish are adored as beautiful living jewels but to feathered or furry admirers, they are FOOD. This article explains what you can do to protect Koi from various predators that range from birds of prey such as the blue heron to raccoons and domestic cats.

Firstly, make sure that you design your Koi fish pond with Koi's safety in mind. Instead of opting for ledges around the sides of the pond, build the sides so that they are vertically steep and smooth. This is so that if a Koi senses a predator around, it can quickly dive into deeper waters and be safely out of harm's way.

If there are ledges around the sides of Koi fish ponds, the Koi will not be able to reach safety so quickly. Inadvertently, these ledges would be providing the perfect opportunity for a raccoon to help them wade into the water and steal dinner for themselves. If you do have any rock ledges, make sure they are well above the water line.

Fish like to hid when danger lurks nearby so build some hiding places such as caverns in the Koi fish pond for them. Ensure the cavern walls are totally submerged in the water though. Avoid creating a shallow area in your pond as shallow waters make fish easy prey. Koi may be trapped in this shallow end with little chance of reaching safety if a predator should appear out of nowhere at that moment.

Besides careful pond design, another effective way to protect Koi is to use a fake Koi fish as a decoy where the fake Koi is placed near the side of the pond to lure the heron. The idea is that when the bird dips its beak into the water to catch the fake fish, it will alert the real Koi who will swim to safer waters as quickly as possible.

Visual scare objects like a fake floating alligator or planting fake owls and snakes near the pond are useful in warding off predators too. Sculptures of heron can be used to protect Koi as herons are territorial birds and if they see another 'heron' at the pond, they will think the territory is already taken and fly off. Just remember to move all the sculptures/objects around regularly, otherwise herons will come to realise that they present no threat and thus take no further notice of them.

In combination, you may consider installing a motion-activated sprinkler to scare herons away. There have been mixed reviews about using these sprinklers; one downside being that pond owners have, on occasion, been known to be drenched by these things! Raccoons are shy creatures that feed mainly at night. They will try to catch Koi of any size to eat. Any fish that manage to escape from them would be lucky not to be injured. Raccoons can be a real problem in suburban areas but luckily, they can be kept at bay with an electric fence. The voltage is set low so it will only give them a mild electric shock - nothing that will harm the creature but it will definitely feel unpleasant.

Last but not least, you can protect Koi by placing netting over the Koi fish pond. This should keep predators out including bullfrogs. Most frogs do not pose a problem in a Koi fish pond but bullfrogs are different in that they are larger in size and capable of eating smaller Koi. Cover the pond, especially at night, when predators are most active. In the fall, netting will have the added benefit of keeping leaves out of the pond.

If you are fortunate to have a pond association in your area, make sure you take advantage of this by learning as much information as you can from its members. They will know a great deal about the types of local predators to look out for and can recommend further methods for keeping your beloved Koi safe. Happy Koi-keeping!

This article may be freely reprinted or distributed in its entirety in any Ezine, newsletter, blog or website. The author's name, bio and website links must remain intact and be included with every reproduction.

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Saturday, September 11, 2010

Koi Winter Survival Techniques

Living in upstate New York virtually guarantees a frigid winter, with a backyard pond that remains frozen for several months. If you have a Koi pond and live in a similar climate, you may wish to know how we have managed to keep all of our fish safe through 5 consecutive harsh winters.

We have about 70 fish in our pond, including Koi, Shubunkins, Comets, and Goldfish. Our concern for their safety has led us to research the topic of winter survival and settle on the following measures, which have been totally effective so far.

Our pond is shaped like a peanut shell, and it's about 23 feet long by 12 feet wide. Half of it is about 2 feet deep and the other half goes to a maximum of 3 feet.

The first winter preparation step is to thoroughly clean the pond. We reposition the pump hose to drain nearly all the water out of the pond, so the fish all crowd together in the deepest part for about an hour. We scrub the liner walls and bottom and remove all debris from the pond bottom. A gentle vacuum assists. Since I know I will be refilling the pond with fresh, clear water from our well, I try to plan this pond maintenance for a time when the pond water has been close to 55 degrees, because that is the temperature of our well water as it comes out. So, this cleaning is done every year in October, and it could also be done in the spring. So far, I have found one cleaning to be sufficient for the year.

The second step is to reduce the feeding of the fish. As the water gets colder through the fall, we stop feeding every day and go to an every other day schedule in early October, graduating to a once a week schedule in mid-November. By Thanksgiving time, we stop feeding altogether for the winter. This is not an absolutely precise regimen. The fish let you know by their behavior how much food they really need, if you get to know them, and you listen and watch.

Once there is no further fish feeding, the pump and filtration circuit may be shut down, cleaned, and stored for the winter. This year, I did that on November 29.

I have chosen to leave the bird netting over the pond, as long as the pond has not frozen. Although many of our Blue Herons have migrated south already, a few remain, and I take no chances with these predators.

After we get our first thorough freeze which lasts at least a few days, I will then implement the last part of our winterizing solution. I use a pond de-icer on an outdoor timer. The de-icer goes in the deepest part of the pond, and it floats. I only run it about an hour or two a day, to avoid excessive electric bills. The de-icer is 1500 watts, so it doesn't take long to open a hole in the ice or to impact my electric bill. Having a hole open in the ice mostly every day for an hour allows the gases time to exchange from the pond to the air and vice-versa.

During the winter, when we have a snowfall, I will brush the snow gently from the ice over the hole and that general area. The sun helps with the daily thawing.

You may be pleasantly surprised to learn that the fish do not hibernate at the bottom of the pond through the winter. Rather, they still like to cruise around near the de-icer, and it is very reassuring to see them happily swimming on cold days. Even more rewarding is the feeling of greeting them safely in the spring.

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Thursday, September 9, 2010

Hiking in Hot Weather - Things You Need to Know

When hiking in hot weather you are either hiking in the rainforest or in the desert. Both are complete opposites of each other so your camping and hiking gear would be different also.

Hiking in the Desert.

Deserts are areas that receive less than 9 inches of rainfall annually. Water is scarce and you need to carry all your water.

The prospect of hiking in the desert may not seem appealing. Who wants to walk for long distances in a barren desolate, hot and dry landscape?

Yet the desert can be surprisingly beautiful in its own special way. You can see cacti flowering after a desert storm, wild flowers in spring and some interesting wildlife. Even the landscape in itself is beautiful.

There is usually a brief rainy season in many deserts in which sudden storms produce much of the annual rainfall. Flash floods are likely during this time particularly in canyons and steep-sided dry river beds. You have a better chance of finding water after a wet season.

Special Gear

Besides super strength sunscreen you also need a full body sun protection. Cover your whole body to protect from the sun and wear a hat that protects your head and face.

Carrying a water containers and a good water filter is a must as water found in the desert are is often polluted.

You might not need a tent especially in the dry season but a tarp can be useful in providing you shelter from the sun and wind. A poncho is useful in the desert for both sun and wind protection.

Even though the desert is hot, it can get very cold at night and the temperature difference is quite dramatic so make sure you also bring warm clothing and a good sleeping bag.

Remember also to bring insect repellent as there can be some nasty insects in the desert.

Tropical Rainforest and Jungles

By contrast, jungles and rainforests are teeming with vegetation and a variety of wildlife, and has a wet and humid climate. They can also be quite cool.

The difference between jungles and rainforests is that jungles have a tangle of dense vegetation and rainforest don't have that much undergrowth.

You can find different species of flora and fauna that you've probably never seen before and it could be an eye opening experience.

Tropical rainforests and jungles are found in the tropics and subtropics near the equator in Southeast Asia, Latin America and Africa.

Temperate Rainforests

Temperate rainforests are found in places such as New Zealand, Tasmania, Chile, Norway and the Pacific Coast of North America and are home to some of the largest trees in the world.

Annual rainfall is high and evaporation is low and it is almost impossible to travel off-trail because the floor is a carpet of soft, decomposing stumps and new vegetation growth from fallen trees.

Sometimes wooden boardwalks are necessary to protect fragile plant from hikers and hiker from the mud.

Special Gear

A good rain gear is essential in the rainforest and also might want to consider a tent with a full flysheet coverage.

There will also be a lot of insects in jungles and rainforests so remember to bring insect repellent and mosquito netting.

To get you through deep jungle mud you might need to wear rubber jungle boots. Zip-lock bags and waterproof bags are particularly useful in these areas to protect any electrical equipment, clothes and maps.

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Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Woodpecker Repellents - Three Best Ways to Keep Woodpeckers Away

Woodpeckers are one of the prettiest birds. They generally prefer to reside in tree trunks. They make holes in the barks of the trees and make their nests there. But off late, woodpecker problems are on a rise. But at the same time, people have come up with good woodpecker repellents, which have proved to be very useful. The problems are becoming very common in the suburbs of America. But we should always keep in mind that even though they have become a major nuisance in the locality, we should make sure that the woodpecker repellents which we are using are humane, as these birds are protected under Federal Migratory Bird Treaty Act.

Woodpeckers can cause a lot of damage to the house owners. They are generally very noisy; they keep hammering on the trees or telephone poles near your house. They may be doing this for several reasons like:


In order to attract mates
To establish its own territory
Search for food like insects
Making a nest.
They generally drum anything from metal, wood to plastics. They love the loud noise they make. But this causes heavy damage to the owners of the property. Woodpecker repellents are the solution for this major issue. There are few methods like Exclusion, Visual woodpecker repellents and Noise woodpecker repellents.

In Exclusion, it is recommended to put nets around the house. A mesh of about ¾ inch is recommended generally. Minimum 3 inches of space should be left between the building and the mesh, so that the birds do not cause more damage. Another way of netting is to attach the nets to overhanging roof space and angle them back to the siding below the damaged area. Make sure that this is not tied very tightly. At the same time, it should be installed properly so that the birds do not escape. If it is installed properly, it won't be visible from far. This could turn out to be good woodpecker repellent. The nets can be removed once the birds are moved to another area.

People have come up with another interesting way to get rid of woodpeckers. It is called Visual woodpecker repellent. These visual woodpecker repellents discourage the birds for pecking the wood constantly. Many people use Mylar Flash Tape, Scare Balloons, or even hanging CD's to scare woodpeckers. The birds feel uncomfortable when they see these things in the area and fly away in search of comfortable places. Such things cause visual distraction to the birds and act as repellents.

Noise repellents are one more easy way to shoo away the woodpeckers. People generally make loud noises, like rock music or bird distress calls. There are tapes available in the market which plays bird distress predator calls for birds. But make sure that you understand the birds and select the site where they simply move on.

Make sure that you keep these woodpecker repellents safely as these birds would surely visit you next year.

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Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Deer Blinds Are Not A Substitute For Skill!

Deer hunting is a sport that greatly tests a man's (or woman's) patience. You can be sitting in the same spot for hours and never see a single deer, but you have to remain still and calm during that entire time - otherwise you may end up never seeing one at all!

By nature, deer are skeptical. You therefore may not give a deer any reason to suspect you as a potential threat. Of course, if a deer even sees you, it is going to see you as a potential threat. That is why deer blinds are so useful.

Of course, just because you are masked by a deer blind, it does not mean that you can move about and make your dinner or scratch at your itches and still expect to see (and shoot) a deer. Even with a deer blind, a hunter must be extremely patient and very skillful. A deer blind is not a substitute for skill!

In fact, even with a deer blind to mask him, a hunter must still know the right place to set it up. He still must remain quiet even as he raises his gun, and he still must be able to shoot at his target once it steps into range.

That being said, a deer blind is still, most definitely, going to help a hunter out. A deer blind does not just help a hunter because it conceals him, but also because it protects him - many deer blinds protect a hunter from cold and from other weather patterns, so that he can remain focused on the game at hand.

Other deer blinds will not protect a hunter against the elements, but they will still conceal him, giving him that extra leg up against the deer.

The type of deer blind that you, as a hunter, use is totally up to you! Whether you choose to simply cover yourself in netting, or if you choose to climb up into a tree, etc. completely depends on your preferences as a hunter.

In fact, if you go out deer hunting, you will find that there are many different deer hunters, with many different preferences, and many different types of hunting blinds! Some hunters will be shooting at their targets with guns, while other will shoot at them with bows and arrows. And you will even find deer hunters who prefer to not use a hunting blind at all.

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Monday, September 6, 2010

Catios - Can Outdoor Cat Enclosures Keep More Than Your Feline Safe?

Cat Enclosures or Catios are built primarily to keep our sweet felines safe but they serve another very important purpose. Cat cages significantly decrease the number of both native and rare bird deaths across the US.

There are two sides to the argument for keeping cat indoors. Most bird lovers say that felines are natural predators and they pose a significant threat to songbirds and species which are not native to North America. Feline lovers agree that cats are just being cats and they have the urge to hunt. So how do catios solve this problem?

A catio or outdoor cat enclosure is a space that protects felines from roaming free and chasing, hunting or killing various animals. Birds are the number one threatened species when it comes to cats that are allowed to roam, so building a cat run is the best solution to helping keep our cats and our bird population safe.

Every year the bird population is impacted by feral or free-ranging felines that hunt and kill the avian population. In cities where cats live close to parks and can roam free, owners have taken to building outdoor cat enclosures to limit their cats access to these birds, thereby saving the lives of out feathered friends.

Catios or cat cages can be free-standing, attached to windows or can be made by enclosing a balcony with a combination of netting, mesh and various other materials. Catios have become increasingly popular as feline owners seek out a way to keep their felines safe from dangerous predators, and vehicles that are often responsible for cat deaths. A cat run can give your kitty access to fresh air, sunshine and outdoor space while keeping both it and the local bird population safe.

There are many animal groups which insist fuzzy felines should be kept exclusively indoors. Feline lovers disagree and have turned to DIY catio designs to find a safe compromise for their indoors kitties. Although animal groups argue that an indoor cat is a healthier cat, less susceptible to parasites and other health concerns, feline owners think that giving their indoor cats an enclosed outdoor space not only keep them happier is actually improves their health. Catios or outdoor cat enclosures are the best solution to helping keep felines safe while protecting our many beautiful feathered friends.

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Sunday, September 5, 2010

Introduction to Koi Ponds for Your Home

Koi are one of the most popular ornamental fish in the world. Adding Koi ponds to one's home is a popular move, so here is an introduction to Koi Ponds.

Koi are a species of carp. Fossils records found in china show they have been around for over 20 million years. It is thought that they originated in Persia and spread across the world from there, but this is really a bit uncertain. The fish is ideal as an ornamental pond fish for several reasons. They love to eat. Some people have described them as like a school of piranhas at feeding time. When they feed, they grow. Since a Koi is capable of living for up to 50 years, they have a chance to grow quite large.

One of the best approaches for a Koi pond is to build it as big as you possibly can. Almost everyone who builds a Koi pond regrets not making it bigger later on and many people find themselves building a second one. If you get it right the first time, you will be much happier. Most people have a tendency to start off with a pond between 500 and 2000 gallons. A 2000 gallon pond will support about 20 full sized Koi fish. Many people think this is going to be plenty, but end up wanting more. If you start with a pond that measures in at between 10,000 and 50,000 gallons you most likely will never need to enlarge it.

A second suggestion is to make your pond as deep as possible. About 4 feet is a minimum unless you want to raise Koi to provide meals for scavengers like raccoons or provide meals to birds like Great Blue Herons or Kingfishers. If you make your pond 8 feet deep, you double the fish's chances of escaping. A sad fact of Koi ponds is that it is sometimes impossible to prevent the loss of some fish to predators, but you should never make it easy for them.

Location is important. Koi are fond of shade and although you can provide this with aquatic plants and lily pads, a shady location is best. Also, try to locate the pond where it is possible to suspend bird netting over the pond as further protection to the fish. Along with protection from predators, you need to protect the actual environment. Koi, like all carp, are very hardy fish, but that does not mean they can survive and thrive in contaminated water. A properly size water pump and filtration system is essential.

Once you have the proper sizing and protection features taken care of, you are free to let your imagination and artistic style run rampant. Koi are popular because they are so beautiful and come in such dazzling colors. Although the fish are the stars of the Koi pond show, the pond itself is their stage. Only the limits of your budget and your imagination should limit the beauty of your Koi pond.

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Saturday, September 4, 2010

Zip and Zoom Over Hawaii Rainforests for X-Zilarating Fun!

Imagine the thrill of soaring like a bird over a pristine Hawaiian rainforest or rugged volcanic ravines! That's what Zipline is all about - a rapidly growing outdoor adventure that some might call extreme, while others say is just extremely fun and exciting!

The Lowdown on High-Flying Ziplines

A zipline (also called a zip wire, aerial runway, death slide, flying foxes or tyrolean crossing) consists of a pulley suspended on a cable mounted on an incline. They are designed to enable a rider to traverse from the top to the bottom of the inclined rope or cable, by holding onto the freely moving pulley. In recent years they are most often used as a means of exciting outdoor entertainment.

Users of ziplines must have means of stopping themselves. Typical mechanisms include a mat or netting at the lower end of the incline; a bungee cord arrester, which slows, then stops the pulley's motion; or the use of a cable suspended between two similarly high points, sagging in the middle, such that the user comes to rest at the low point after a period of oscillation.

Zipline Canopy Tours offer visitors the unique experience of traveling safely through the forest, high above the ground on a series of ziplines, over suspension bridges etc. Canopy Towers often play a role in this outdoor adventure, too. These tours are considered eco-friendly because much less damage occurs to ecosystems when people soar above them rather than plodding through them.

Professional versions of a zipline are most often sold as an outdoor adventure activity. In contrast to "flying foxes," activity courses usually attain higher speeds and cover much greater distances. Paying participants are physically attached to the cable by wearing a harness connected to a removable pulley. Such courses often require the use of a helmet.

Hawaii is Perfect for Ziplining

In Hawaii, commercial activity providers offer zipline adventures tours on the islands of Maui and Kauai. These tours provide adventurers with a safe and exciting way of seeing and experiencing the natural wonder of the Hawaiian Islands, while aiding in the preservation of the islands' land and culture.

Commercial zipline tours are extremely safe and well-researched. All equipment meets or exceeds industry standards for safety, with each cable tested to hold well over 14,500 pounds! The result is a tour that allows riders to feel confident as they step off the edge of cliffs, and soar over treetops and across ravines.

Two Kauai Zipline Adventures

Two Kauai companies provide zipline tours. Both combine a short hiking experience with picturesque zipline crossings, "Indiana Jones" style swinging bridges, and an introduction to Kauai's unique and fragile landscape.

Specially trained staff outfit adventurers with a customized seat harness and equipment before leading them into the rainforest, and on to these award winning, one-of-kind adventures. Before arriving at the first zipline, a thorough briefing prepares zipliners to soar over tropical Kauai rainforests, streams and jungles rich with magnificent scenery.

Outfitters Kauai offers an exciting trek through Kipu Ranch, a 4,000-acre piece of paradise on Kauai's south shore that has long been closed to the general public. Soar on seven zip lines through the forest canopy high above rivers and waterfalls to the valley floor. Then hike, swim, and rope swing into a deep-water pond at the base of a mountain stream waterfall before eating a picnic lunch.

Princeville Ranch Adventures on Kauai's north shore offers exclusive access to over 2,500 acres of private lands. Their zipline tours provides an incredible adventure blending eight picturesque zipline crossings, a suspension bridge, and a stop at an idyllic waterfall swimming hole for lunch and leisure.

What You Need to Know

Both Kauai tours provide helmets and harnesses, as well as a basic safety orientation. Zipliners need to bring knee-length shorts or long pants and closed-toed, secure-covered shoes such as tennis shoes or hiking boots. There is usually a weight restriction of about 260 lbs. Participants must also have good knees, hips and backs. Zipline tours are not recommended for those uncomfortable with heights. Duh!

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Friday, September 3, 2010

Looking For a Bird Repellent?

As a grower, you have your own special pest bird headaches. Historically, vineyards, fields and orchards used to be smaller and intermixed with other crops. Today, they're far more expansive and crops are much sweeter. This can attract huge flocks and frenzied feeding that can totally destroy a crop. A flock of 5,000 starlings, for example, can consume up to one ton of food in just 10 days. You know that grackles, gulls and starlings can be a problem, but so can robins, orioles, and mockingbirds, especially for grape and tender fruit growers. All the more reason to look for an effective bird repellent.

Over the years, you've learned a few things about pest birds. For one, large flocks are easier to scare than small ones. It's also tough to break birds of the habit of feeding in any one area once they've decided to make your property their home. Worse yet, birds feeding on your crop will draw other birds to feed. You've learned too, that birds quickly become immune to uniform movements or noise patterns. And that crops protected with netting are still vulnerable to birds perching on nets that feed through them.

The problem is, you've tried rotating propane exploder cannons ("bird-bangers"), hawk silhouettes, stuffed owls and snakes, even toxic baits, but those pest birds just keep on coming. Eating up profits. What you have is a "failure to communicate." What you need is a really good bird repellant.

Not to worry. There are all sorts of ways to repel pest birds without resorting to firearms, stuffed hawks or poisons. These repellants include everything from low cost to high-tech. Best of all, they're humane, easy to install, and they work.

Probably the best place to start is one of the most economical bird repellent--the Bird Chaser. Birds don't like shiny things that wave at them while they're trying to land. And Bird Chasers do just that. They employ iridescent reflective foil or flash tape, balloons, and banners to create what's known as an "Optical Distraction Zone." The balloons come in all shapes and sizes, some even sport giant threatening eyes. Be sure to install these above the crop for best effect. And allow them to move freely in the breeze. String streamers and flash tape along perimeter rows where pest birds cause the most damage. And swap them out often.

Speaking of scary eyes, a bird repellent called a Bird Chaser uses scare-eye images to keep pest birds at bay. It's easy to install and quite effective. One manufacturer offers a two for one chaser with iridescent foil eyes on one side and glow-in-the-dark eyes on the other side for night use.

To keep birds from landing on barns, sheds, silos and other buildings on your orchard, you might try the Bird Spike. This highly effective bird repellent discourages birds from landing through the use of intimidating looking spikes. The spikes are attached to strips (about 2 feet or so in length) and you can get them in either stainless steel or rigid unbreakable polycarbonate. The poly spikes cost less and are ideal for use in areas where the electrical conductivity of steel spikes could present a problem. Both are harmless to birds and easy to install.

Another thing you might try is Bird Netting. It's a good bird repellent for warehouses, barns and other structures. Netting comes in 3/4", 1-1/8" and 2" mesh sizes to repel sparrows, starlings, pigeons, and larger birds. The best netting is made of ISO 1806 mesh test polyethylene fabric. For long life, look for nets that are U.V. stabilized, flame resistant, and rot and waterproof. For best effect, drape nets directly on top of the crop (or trees), or tie them to an overhead structure to enclose the vineyard or orchard. Be sure to drape nets high enough so birds can't access your crop.

If you like higher tech devices, there are two bird repellents worth mentioning.

There's the Audio Bird Repellent. These can be surprisingly effective. They generate ultrasonic sounds beyond the reach of human hearing, but they drive pest birds away in droves. Some audio repellents emit threatening predator or shrill bird distress calls to frighten pest birds away. There are also audio devices that simply generate annoying sounds (like listening to your mother in law), which most living things can't stand. If you've got a flock of birds driving you crazy in a warehouse, barn or shed, audio repellents will get them out. Ideal for sparrows, starlings, pigeons, and larger birds.

Last up is one bird repellent that has worked for a wide range of orchards, vineyards and other open areas. These fall into the category of the Fogger/Mister. They use powerful aerosol systems to create a food-grade, non-lethal mist of methyl anthranilate. This misted chemical won't harm birds, man or beast, and is FDA-approved. Birds fly through the mist and it makes them want to scatter in all directions and never come back. Some Fog/Mist systems area equipped with remote spray units and come with adjustable spray nozzles to reach specific trouble zones.

So put away that shotgun or cannon and give that stuffed Hawk to you kid's school. You've got some real bird repellent alternatives.

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